Your Lash Adhesive
As a lash technician you’ll know that one of the most important products to have in your lash kit is your lash adhesive and there is a minefield of different types available; low fume, high performance, sensitive formula, etc.
Which one do you use?
For me it’s easy, I use the strongest adhesive on the market (LASH1 and LASHv) because I want my lash-work to last as long as possible on my clients. Of course this comes with issues that need to be addressed. Can your client keep her eyes dry during the treatment application? Is the adhesive going to be too strong and cause a sensitivity to your clients? And there are some products and tricks that can help with this.
These days most lash adhesives on the market are considered medium to high performance, that means used in the right conditions the client will keep their lash extensions for a good 3-4 weeks before requiring an infill. A sensitive adhesive will last around 2 weeks and the super strong adhesives can have a 5-7 week bonding!
If your clients are returning in less than 2 weeks for in-fills, one of the areas to look at is your working environment, are you working in the right conditions for your adhesive to cure correctly?
Lash adhesive are very rarely faulty, the environmental conditions the lash adhesive is exposed to whilst curing has a massive impact on the quality and longevity of the product.
How does lash adhesive work?
Lash adhesive does not ‘dry’, it cures because the main ingredient in lash adhesive, cyanoacrylate is an acrylic resin that rapidly polymerizes (cures) with the presence of water in the air (humidity). Once the adhesive liquid comes into contact with water in the air (humidity) this causes a thin skin to start to form within seconds, which will slow the reaction.
This is why it’s important to only use a thin layer of adhesive – to ensure a speedy reaction which will create a strong bond. The process of curing takes up to 12-24hrs before the adhesive becomes waterproof and it’s safe to expose to other water sources like showers, saunas, etc.
Humidity and Temperature
As already mentioned lash adhesive starts to cure once in contact with water in the air (humidity) and it needs to be exposed to the right amount of water in the air. Too much or too little water will weaken the integrity of the adhesive. For optimum working conditions keep your room temperature and humidity within the recommended ranges of your adhesive.
If your adhesive dries too quickly, you can find extensions become brittle and ‘ping’ off the natural lashes. This means there is not enough water in the air. This is when a nano-mister becomes your best friend in helping the lash adhesive to cure correctly.
If your adhesive dries too slowly, the adhesive will become ‘gloopy’ and can create ‘stickies’. This means there is too much water in the air and can compromise the strength of the adhesive. This is when a dehumidifier becomes your best friend in helping the lash adhesive to cure correctly.
So you see, it’s very important to know your working conditions, ie the temperature and humidity of your lash room and to use your adhesive at the correct levels. And remember if the humidity is high you should definitely not be using a nano-mister
Do you have a hydrometer to advise you on your work environment conditions? If you don’t, you should get one, I’m absolutely dependent on mine.
For Best Results
For best results the humidity and temperature need to be within the recommended range to get the best results from the adhesive.
Its also worth noting that once you open your bottle of adhesive it becomes exposed to the air and it starts to very slowly degrade because of the slow curing. This is why most lash adhesive suppliers recommend a two month expiry after opening.
So, to recap
Think of it like this, if there is too little water in the air whilst curing the adhesive will become brittle and ‘ping’ off the natural lashes so the lash extensions won’t last and if there is too much water in the air whilst curing the adhesive will become ‘gloopy’ because the water will flood the adhesive and cause it to weaken it’s strength and again the lash extensions won’t last.
Different reasons as to why lash extensions won’t last but both have the same result – no longevity for the lash wearer. It’s not always bad client aftercare, but because I am so aware of my working conditions, if a client is having problems with retention, I know it’s not my lash adhesive!
Best Working Conditions
- Shake your adhesive for at least 30 seconds before every use.
- Store in a cool dry area of the room and keep nozzle clean.
- Wipe nozzle after EVERY use. TIP – ‘burp’ the adhesive and wipe with a tissue before replacing cap.
- Once opened do not keep your adhesive in the fridge, this will create condensation and will accelerate the curing process of your adhesive.
- For best results ensure lashes are oil free by using the Primer prior to use.
- Keep adhesive away from children.
- Adhesive will expire 2 months after opening. Adhesive can be stored up to 1 year un-opened in a cool dark environment.